Before you build a rifle, you have to start by asking yourself one question: What do I want this rifle to do? A target rifle to plink at the range is a lot different than a PRS setup, so is a hunting rifle compared to a defense rifle. I wanted to build a rifle that was practical for me, which meant a rifle I can take to the range and have the bragging rights for a day with my pals at 100 yards. I also wanted 200 yards to be a chip shot, so that is where I began. I started by making a punch list of the attributes or feature set I wanted in my rifle.
• Common and proven chambering with plenty of ammo options.
• Ability to easily engage targets out to 200 yards.
• A proven action with plenty of aftermarket-parts support.
• A barrel with a medium-to-heavy contour; heavy enough to settle down quickly when using a rest, tripod or a bipod, but not too heavy to carry.
• A stock that’s adjustable for length-of-pull and includes a cheek riser; even better if the grip and buttplate are adjustable.
• Suppressor ready.
• Compatible with AICS-pattern magazines.
The chambering choice to me was simple; old-school .308 Win. ammo runs about a buck to $3.65 per round depending on the brand and type of ammo, and there is an embarrassment of choices in bullet types and weights. The last thing I wanted to do was to have a unique (read: unpopular) chambering and not have readily available ammo. I was leaning toward a chassis setup for the simple fact that they are adjustable for a more personalized fit and lighter than a boat anchor. I made choices and compromises. Budget is always a consideration, since there isn’t a box on my 401K loan form for a rifle build. Here’s where I ended up:
Barreled Action: Bergara No. 5.5 Contour
When I started to look at parts, I knew the build needed to be based on the combat-proven Remington Model 700 action. There are plenty of aftermarket parts for the Model 700 and its clones. I chose a Bergara barreled action because the action is designed to fit most stocks and chassis made for the 700. Bergara barrels are also some of the most accurate factory-made barrels available at a decent cost. I chose the number 5.5 contour because it offers a balance between weight and accuracy for long-range shooting. Barreled actions also make building a rifle easier, since the barrel is already properly headspaced, so that is one less thing to do.
Bergara’s barreled actions are uncoated and require a finish • The Magpul Pro 700 Lite SA stock offers excellent ergonomics as well as a wide range of adjustment for things such as length-of-pull, comb height and trigger reach.
Stock: Magpul Pro 700 Lite SA
Most aftermarket stocks allow the DIY gun builder to simply drop the barreled action into the stock and torque it down to the spec. That’s simple, and I like simple. Chassis are practical, allowing the user to adjust the stock for a near-perfect fit, have a comfortable pistol grip and the ability to add accessories like a bipod. Regardless of matters like environmental conditions, you need to be comfortable behind the stock, and a chassis allows that. A Magpul Pro 700 Lite SA stock was used as the foundation for the build. It is lightweight at 4.4 pounds and is adjustable for both length-of-pull and comb height. Plus, the rubber buttpad is adjustable for height and cant, and the pistol grip is adjustable for trigger reach. Two grip modules are included, and the fore-end is peppered with M-Lok slots to add any accessories you might need. QD sling swivel sockets and a sling slot offer sling-mounting options. You can also buy an optional QD socket, so the sling is completely quick-detach. The magazine well is compatible with AICS mags, of which I have a stack of on hand. There’s a lip that allows the user to jam the rifle up against a barricade while not interfering with the magazine, which is a handy feature. The magazine release is low-profile, anti-snag and ambidextrous, so making a mag swap in the prone position is smooth and fast. Similarly, the trigger guard is generously sized and glove friendly and accepts curved or flat triggers.
Trigger: TriggerTech Diamond
We all know the trigger is the thing that interfaces most intimately with the user, other than the stock. I dropped in a single-stage TriggerTech Diamond with a flat face. It is adjustable from 4 ounces to 2 pounds, and you don’t need to pull the action from the stock to adjust it.
Use of a torque wrench ensures the action screws are tightened to approximately 55 to 60 inch-pounds to the chassis • The Trijicon REAP-IR 60 mm thermal riflescope gave the author added versatility of being able to engage targets a long range as well as in a variety of lighting conditions • The TriggerTech Diamond is easily attached to the action via two pins. Installation requires only a punch and hammer • The SureFire SOCOM muzzle brake proved effective at mitigating the rifle’s recoil • After installing the trigger onto the barreled action, it can then be easily inserted into the chassis of the Magpul Pro 700 SA stock.
Optic: Trijicon REAP-IR
For the optic mount I used a 20-MOA Talley one-piece Picatinny rail with an anti-cant indicator. This gives me 20 MOA more if I decide to use the rifle for longer-range shooting. Further, any optics rings that are cross-slot-mount compatible will work with this base. It will also work with optics that feature integrated mounts such as the versatile Trijicon REAP-IR 60 mm thermal optic. Here is where I deviated from the norm. I have been using thermal optics for a few years, and even in that short period of time, the displays have gone from colored blobs to detailed thermal images. Once you go thermal, it’s hard to go back to traditional optics—a thermal optic provides an entirely different shooting experience. I know I blew my budget with the REAP-IR, but I’ve found optics have transitory lives on my rifles. I’ve used a variety of different thermal optics and settled on the Trijicon for its simplicity. A single joystick controls the optic, so I don’t need to be a computer programmer to work the dang thing. Plus, it has a rugged aluminum housing, and the resolution for the price point is excellent.
Muzzle Device: SureFire SOCOM Muzzle Brake
The SureFire SOCOM Muzzle Brake is proven, which is a nice way of saying it has been around for a while. I’ve used this brake in the past and like how it reduces the recoil impulse, so recoil goes straight back and I can stay on target better. I also opted for this device since it’s compatible with the company’s SOCOM suppressors should I choose to run a can on the rifle. Suppressors tend to be transitory on my rifles, too.
Bipod: Magpul MOE QD Bipod
Keeping with the Magpul theme, the new MOE QD bipod was attached to one of the seven M-Lok slots on the bottom of the chassis fore-end. It’s made of polymer and designed to be rugged and lightweight, as well as easy to install.
Rugged and lightweight, the Magpul MOE QD bipod easily interfaced with the rifle’s M-Lok slots and proved intuitive to use, without adding any unwanted bulk • Thanks to its practical features like enhanced ergonomics and adaptability, the author’s DIY rifle has delivered excellent sub-MOA groups at 100 yards.
Pure Custom Touch
I’ve always held to the advice of “Make it new, make it you.” So, what do you do with a barreled action in the white and a plain-black chassis? You call a fellow gun guy who has Cerakote coursing through his veins. Jeremy Sides owns Eclipse Gunworks (eclipsegunworks.com) and we went back and forth several times on the personality of the rifle. Did I want it Guccied, battle worn or any option in between? Sides grew up in the firearm industry and has built high-end pistols for the past 25 years. He has an artistic eye that meshes seamlessly with his gunsmithing skills. I’m not sure about everyone else, but I’ve had my fill of Burnt-Bronze finishes. We landed on Highland Green, Desert Sand, Graphite Black and Gun Metal gray for the chassis. The Bergara barrel and receiver are finished in Tungsten and the bolt is coated in Graphite Black.
The build process didn’t take long once I had the parts. The TriggerTech trigger attached to the bottom of the receiver via two pins using a hammer and a punch. Next, drop the barreled action into the Magpul chassis and hand-tighten two action screws. I then pulled the action back to ensure the recoil lug on the barreled action makes contact against the rear surface of the recoil lug slot, and then torqued the two action screws to 55 to 60 inch-pounds. Then, the SureFire comp was screwed on and hand-tightened. It needs to be timed, meaning the comp needs to be even with bottom dead center (6 o’clock position) to the barrel. SureFire includes shims and timing-wheel charts in the instructions to make this happen. It is super-simple to do: Basically, you want the comp almost bottom, dead center. Looking at the front from the top of the muzzle, determine the degrees the comp is off. Then, just a look at the timing chart will tell you what combination of shims you need. Remove the comp, add the shims, a dab of Rocksett (included with the product) and hand-tighten, then torque it to about 20 inch-pounds—there is no need to gorilla it and overtighten.
The Trijicon mounts like any other optic with a built-in Picatinny base. You want to be comfortable looking through the eye piece and viewing the screen.
Running The Bergara Barreled Action
The Bergara action is quite exceptionally smooth for a mass-produced turnbolt. There was no drag and it wasn’t sticky. I could load a round one at a time by dropping it on the empty mag. Adjusting the Magpul chassis requires a hex wrench, and it was a simple task to fit it to me. Getting behind the Bergara, I installed the bipod and it felt like I had been shooting the rifle for years—it was just that comfortable. The Trijicon has excellent resolution: Looking at pine trees I could see the texture of the bark on the trunk, and I could easily identify yearling does from bucks. I used a hand-warmer as a target, but have found that better thermal scopes can pick up the heat-absorbing colors of a dark bullseye. I’m glad I passed on that computer programming course all those years ago because I didn’t need it to zero the REAP-IR, as it is super-simple to zero.
The TriggerTech trigger was crisp and light. I almost needed a screwdriver to remove the silly grin from my face after shooting it. I started with Black Hills Gold Match loaded with a 168-grain Hornady A-Max and SIG Sauer Elite Performance Match with a 168-grain OTM bullet. Muzzle velocity averaged 2,087 fps for the Black Hills and 2,590 fps with the SIG. The best group with the SIG Sauer was .36 inch for three shots at 100 yards, and the Black Hills group was .60 inch. Moving to 200 yards, Blacks Hills shot 2.08 inches for three shots and finally SIG Sauer measured 3.18 inches. I guessed 168-grain ammo to start out, and the results were impressive. I still need to run more bullet weights through it, but it looks like the Bergara is partial to 168-grain bullets. Recoil was pleasant and the weight of the rifle helped me to get back on target fast even when I had the zoom too high.
Build It and It Will Shoot
You can spend a few stacks of Benjamins on a really good rifle with a well-known name rollmarked on it, or you can build one yourself using quality parts. If you know what end of a screwdriver to hold and “DIY brotherhood” is tattooed on your forearm, you can build a damn good rifle that is unique and personalized.
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